Tannin Recipes
“Colours are the smiles of nature”
Though you might start with the tried and true aluminium mordants, consider trying tannin-rich extracts that not only offer a base colour, they prep your fibre for more colour to lay on top. Tannins can also be used as adjuncts with aluminium sulfate or aluminium acetate to further strengthen the mordant bond and that is how they are most often used because they create the best performance and results. The use of tannins is typically used with cellulose fibres as they can sometimes change the hand of protein fibres like silk and wool, so aluminium potassium sulfate is still the best option for animal fibres.
Oak Gall:
The earliest and richest source of natural tannin, it is also the clearest of the tannins. It is found in the gallnuts of oak trees. A gallnut is produced by the tree as a defence against gall wasps who deposit their eggs in small punctures they make on young branches. The tree excretes a tannin-rich substance that hardens and forms a gallnut.
Use gallnut extract at 6-8% WOF.
Or Oak galls at 10-20% WOF.
Myrobalan:
This tannin consists of ground nuts of the Terminalia chebula tree. It is both a mordant and a dye, giving a light buttery yellow when applied. It will create a light warm colour on the fabric. The colour works well for overdyeing. Myrobalan is also the perfect colour to lay down under a single indigo dip for teal.
Use for tannin mordant at 5-20% WOF.
If wanting to create a soft butter yellow colour dye 20-30% WOF.
Pomegranate:
Pomegranate extract is another tannin which can be both a tannin mordant or a dye. Pomegranate is an aromatic dye that yields a matte green-yellow colour. It yields rich blue greens when overdyed with indigo or dark olive greens when combined with Logwood or iron.
Use Pomegranate extract at 6-8% WOF.
Or Rinds at 20% WOF.
Chestnut:
Chestnut has been used historically for tanning leather in Europe and North America. On fibres, chestnut extract yields a soft yellow which is excellent for combining with other colours. The chestnut colour yields a warm grey shade with the addition of iron.
Use for tannin mordant at 5-8% WOF.
Or Chestnut extract for a dye at 10% WOF
Cutch:
Gives a rich reddish brown colour. It is both a tanning agent and a dyestuff. It has been used in India since ancient times. To make cutch extract, cutch wood is soaked in hot water until the liquid becomes syrupy. The dye liquid is cooled, pressed and cut into cubes and dried. Then the cubes are ground into powder for dyeing.
Although this is high in tannin it is not recommended for the tannin mordant process due to the deep dye shade it will leave on your fibres. However, it does mean it is perfect for overdyeing and for use without any Alum mordants.
Quebracho Moreno:
Is another high in tannin dye and tannin mordant. The name is due to its hardness, The word quebracho means axe breaker and it comes from the Spanish word ‘quebrar’ (to break) and ‘hacha’ (axe). The extract will produce a golden brown color which will darken slightly on exposure to direct sunlight. As a dye it can produce brown rose, salmon or brownish peach colours.
Use for a tannin mordant at 15-20% WOF.
For a dye use at 30% WOF
Wattle:
Wattle is a member of the Acacia family and is used extensively in leather tanning. Wattle extract is one of the richest tannins to create iron-based greys and blacks or to overdye with indigo to create interesting muted greens. Acacia is a great dye to modify colours on cotton. On its own, it produces colours ranging from pink-beige to brown.
Use wattle extract for a tannin mordant at 15% WOF.
For dye use at 25% WOF.
Black walnut:
This is a common source of brown dye throughout North America. This tannin mordant or dyestuff is obtained from the bark of the tree and also from the green husks of the fruit. Walnut is a substantive dye and can be used without a mordant. It can be used alone to produce warm deep taupes or to give extra depth in combination with other dyes. The fleshy hulls are full of tannin, juglone and other pigments and are the primary source of the dye. The rich brown colour develops with oxygen, so it is necessary to simmer the walnut powder for about two hours with an overnight cool down before adding the fibre.
Not recommended for tannin mordant application.
For dyeing use at 30-50% WOF.
